Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Taj Ultimate and Tottori Farewells:

I went to play in Tajima weekend before last; this is the same tournament i took an 8-hour road trip to play in back in the summer of 2005, when I first studied abroad in Japan, though this time it was only a 2-hour trip from nearby Tottori.  Another pickup team, another great time.

We had to book it back a day early, however, for our sayonara party with the other JETs.  Some superlative awards were given (I won for best dance moves, for reasons I'm sure you all are aware of), speeches were made, but generally we just had a great time with our last hurrah as this group of JETs.

Many of us are leaving and scattering across the globe, and though the goodbyes were sad...in a strange way, I feel like leaving will make us closer.  While here we were acquaintances, forced to be something more than that by circumstance (namely, the circumstance of being part of the .5% foreign population in Tottori); should our paths ever cross again, that same shared circumstance will lend us a camaraderie in many ways greater than the sum of our time together here.  It's not just the time with each other, but the shared experience of having lived and taught here, in our Tottori, that strengthens this bond.  No tears for these farewells, but strong emotion, in large part nostalgia.

final farewells

My final day entailed three visits.  One was to an elementary school (similar to the prior post; at this one a student read a message to me in English with tears in her eyes and it was all I could do to avoid breaking down right then and there).

The other two went to my junior high schools.  Both were difficult farewells, but one was especially tough.

Of the anecdotes above and throughout the past year, most all of them have been from one school in particular.  If you recall graduation in March, I was pretty bummed to miss the ceremony at one of the schools--it's the same one.  I've come to love all of my students, but I especially relish every chance with the ones at Hatto.

...I try really really hard not to cry.  Call me bull-headed, old-fashioned, stubborn, whatever; it's an emotion I take very seriously.  I try especially hard not to cry with an audience.

I cried when I said my goodbye at Hatto. I wasn't the only one.

I thanked my students for fun classes, and for their smiles--their smiles, welcoming me from the beginning, when I was nervous about my life as a teacher in Japan.  I told them that I enjoyed seeing their energy, in class and out, and that they had gone from shy students to friends who would stop anywhere to say hello.

I told them that I was going to medical school, and that, since I was becoming a student again, we should both do our best at our studies, together.

I told them that I'd never forget them.  And I sobbed out a final "thank you".

They gave me flowers.  They gave me a book full of farewell messages. They gave me a round of applause as I left.

Elementary Goodbyes

Farewells at the elementaries were really bittersweet.  At one they had a rather elaborate ceremony* worked out, including one of the students reading to me in English (granted, he was reading it with Japanese phonetics as it was written, but still, !!) while at another they all sang to me.  Really touching stuff--mementos aplenty, with drawn-up thank you notes from all my 5th and 6th graders, complete with picutres of us together.

I was doing really really good at not crying until I was leaving one school--they accompanied me to the exit and saw me off from the parking lot; I was still good pulling out, but as I went down the hill by the school to drive away, the students started running along the top of it alongside of me, waving and shouting "goodbye!"

I could still see them in my rear view mirror as the tears welled up.

"Ganbatte kudasai [please do your best]!"

Had my very last class at middle school; at the end I told them a bit about my plans ("I want to be a doctor"), and students wrote farewell messages (being 9th graders with at least 3 years of English under their belt, they only got 10 minutes--lots of hurried textbook flipping looking up words!).

After class, Shie, perhaps my very favorite student (she's the one who pointed me out in the Backstreet Boys Video--I've got a bunch of anecdotes just about her.  Super-energetic and completely unabashed in her English use), came up to me.


"Doctor," she says, "Great!"  and curls a clenched fist in show of solidarity.
"I'll do my best!"
"You are doctor, I am nurse!" she giggles, rushing off excitedly.

I'm really gonna miss my students.

"Since Matt-sensei is single, how about...?"

During lunch with the 1st graders at one of the elementaries we were chatting about  the usual fare for a while ("What animal do you like?" "How old are you?"), until finally one asks the inevitable:

"[Do you have a girlfriend?]"

I inform them that no, I in fact, do not, and am immediately paired off with one of the assistant teachers.  Awkward eye contact and apologies from/to the paired parties ensue while the children giggle; despite the homeroom teacher's reassurances that, fact that I was leaving Japan aside, I didn't need the help of the first graders to find a girlfriend, the students kept bringing it up.


"Well if Matt likes curry rice, ~sensei can make it..."

Their innocence really is touching.

"Three!? Three WHAT, huh?"

Went swimming with my elementary school students Friday a week ago.  I showed off my butterfly technique (when I told them it was my specialty, they were all "oh! awesome!"); being 5 years out of practice means I left the pool really sore, but I still got it!

The elementary students were of course keen to study my body moreso than my technique--lots of requests for muscle flexes and such, along with plenty of poking and some hugs, the hug being a new tactic in an attempt to sap my body heat (it was a cool overcast day at the outdoor pool).

At one point on the deck, a 6th grade boy leans over and examines my crotch*.
"Yappari, mit-tsu aru. [I knew it, there's three!]"

Something about curiousity and cats.  He got a good poke attack for that one.

(*I was in a speedo--I've kept it from high school.  It's so small, why not pack it everywhere?)

"This is 'Tuba.'"

I went through band practice one day last week.  The students are spread in different rooms practicing their various instruments (mostly woodwinds, but there was the drum/xylophone room for the percussionists too).

As I walked into the percussion room, one of my favorite girls, Yui, comes up to me (she's sort of in charge of practice), offering an emphatic "Hi!" (which is why she's one of my favorites).

She then proceeds to lead me through the rooms, stopping to introduce me to all of the instruments in English, without any prompting from me whatsoever.

At one point I tell her I played sax back in high school.

"!! Me too!" she excitedly replies. She even let me HOLD hers.  Got me nostalgic for my high school jazz band days.  More than anything, though, it made me really happy--it was very much a "she can SO use English!" moment, and I'm not sure which of us was prouder for it.

Japanese Snot Eaters

Checking out baseball practice on my way home one day, one of my normally quiet 7th graders starts talking to me a bit--being a 7th grade boy, of course, he has some typical boy questions.  For instance:

Him: "What's this?" while pointing at his nose.
Me: "Nose?"
Him, in Japanese now, "no, [Japanese word I haven't learned]."
gestures at something reminiscent of picking your nose.
Me: "..Snot?"


"Su-not!" he giggles.  


He points at his friend.  "You are 'snot!'"  His friend gives him a quizzical look, while Yuu* (the first boy) repeats the accusation, cracking up.

He turns back to me.  "What's [a bloody nose**?]"
My translation is too long for his liking, so he immediately moves on.

At this point a 9th grader, Daijiro, has come over to supervise.
"What's [poop?]"
Me (faux innocent): "I don't know."
Yuu squats, and gestures from his butt.
At this point Daijiro interjects telling him to stop it.  ("You are a bad man," Daijiro scolds, but being a lowly 7th grader Yuu needs a translation to get the insult.)

I of course refuse to tell him anything more at this point, seeing what he's already done with the little I've given.  Yuu tries to get a couple more perverse but typically boyish words translated, along with hilarious gesticulation--I've never had as much fun playing dumb as when he was gesturing at [from] his crotch looking for confirmation of what it's called while some two dozen of his classmates looked on cracking up. Eventually he gives up and goes back to his old ways.

Yuu: "This boy likes snot. He eats snot!"  "You are su-NOT!"

I'm glad I'm still making friends even with the end so close.

(*He spelled his name as "You," using the well-learned English pronoun in his farewell note.  Adorable. 


**For the record, a bloody nose is a sign of perversion in popular media here--blood's all rushing around so much that the nose gives out).

"Did you enjoy?"

Last week I stopped in on some students working on their art after school. These students are some of my chattiest (nothing all that substantial usually mind you--just "hi! how are you!" but still better than most students will give unprompted).

At one point they're going back and forth about who likes who--two of the girls tell me that  "She," pointing at a third girl, "likes her neighbor!"  but she retorts with a "SHE likes my big brother!" and proceeds to allude to some rendezvous had (something about spending a night together, very scandalous--I'm assuming it was on a field trip or such), the other denying it the whole time. I asked her if she enjoyed it, and they all cracked up.

High School Reunion

About a month ago walking back from school I bumped into some students coming from the high school--no longer my students, they'd graduated in March, but I didn't see them at first and they remembered me, calling me over by name.

We exchanged some brief pleasantries--I asked them about how high school was ("...enjoying...enjoy...fun! It's fun!!" one of them exclaimed.  She always was one of the best students--most never realize there's a translation beyond "enjoy"), and we went on our way, but the...joy at the chance encounter buoyed my spirits for a whole week.

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Karoke Champions

In late April we held "Tottori Idol," a karaoke competition for the JETs in the prefecture. Most people missed the "karaoke" memo though and either sang their own music with live accompaniment or otherwise didn't need the machine. My favorite performance was a single group that did Journey's "Don't Stop Believin'"...on Rock Band. (For those that don't know, Rock Band is Guitar Hero plus--a video game where you have two guitar controllers, a drum set controller, and a mic, and everyone hits buttons in time with the song to "perform").

I got recruited to join a boy band--sorry to disappoint, but there was no Backstreet Boys "I Want it That Way" this time. Instead we did "Poison" by Bell Biv DeVoe, the '90s hip-hop one-hit wonder.

We had choreo.

We won.

Preparing for Succession

I finally got my successor's information week before last. Been e-mailing him information and selling him my car, etc...it's really starting to hit home just how soon I'll be leaving. With less than a month to go, I've started packing up my extra (winter) clothes to send home, and just generally have shifted to more of a "the end is nigh" mindset. I met people this weekend, for instance, who could've been good friends in other circumstances, but in this case we simply part with a "farewell."

I'm particularly dreading saying goodbye to my students--with only a few weeks of class left I've only a couple classes at most with each grade left. This Friday will be my last time teaching at the elementaries, and the following week they'll have a "farewell" ceremony for me, which is probably going to make me cry. For whatever challenges I've had with adjusting to living and working here, one thing remains undeniable; I love these children. Seeing my middle school students now, I remark to myself on how they've grown and matured over the past year, about how the non-working troublemaker has at least tried to pay attention on occasion, or how my 9th graders from last year have moved on to high school--I ran into a few not long ago and had a great old-friends moment with them. This is why I love this job, and why leaving will be bittersweet.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Happy Rafting in Shikoku

 Roaring waves and rafters alike!

Met up with the aforementioned Tokushima-prefecture JETs for a day of whitewater rafting last weekend; this time instead of making the trip to Akashi, which is a decenly long but still doable drive, I took the express trains to cover the 200+ km.

The weather and scenery were absolutely GORGEous; it was cloudy but not rainy, hot but not uncomfortably so. A perfect day to be out on the water (and in the water--the rapids themselves were fine but our guide had us doing all sorts of balancing acts or otherwise that left us capsized or man overboard-ed). Highlights included stopping for lunch at a bluff overlooking much of the gorge the water ran through and a point nearby where we could "surf" a raft in a rapid where the current came back towards the waterfall. We took turns going in small groups with a guide to keep us afloat, but that didn't do much to avoid the inevitable tossed person/people or capsized raft.

We followed the day of rafting with a night of camping right on the water, building a campfire and enjoying the summer night, and saw some nearby sights the following day. A beautiful weekend and a wonderful getaway.

You can find pictures on facebook here and here.

Saturday, June 27, 2009

Beach Ultimate in Akashi

A few weekends ago (June 13-14) I road tripped with a fellow Tottori JET to Akashi--about a 4 hour drive--to play some beach ultimate. The group was pretty similar to the people I played with in Awaji in April; lots of JETs from other prefectures, including Tokushima on the smaller island of Shikoku and Fukuoka, which is pretty far west on the island of Kyushu (in contrast, Tottori is on the northern coast of the southern part of Honshu, Japan's main island).

Saturday's play saw us all mixed up on different teams in a Hat Tournament (where you decide teams by drawing names out of a hat--in this case, we drew our team assignments out of a hat when we registered); most of the teams in Japan are colleges, so I got to chat and play with a handful of guys and gals around my age. I helped carry my team to a 5th-place finish out of some dozen teams. We spent Saturday night in a ryokan, a Japanese-style inn where you sleep on tatami floors with futon mattresses; all 10 of us shared a room together, which made it pretty fun, very nostalgic of sharing cabins at summer camp--thankfully there weren't any big snorers.

Rising Tide!

Sunday we played together on our own team, complete with spray-painted jerseys one of the guys had made. We played hard and well, and wound up finishing 8th out of some 26 teams or so; with a better format or seeding, we could've easily been in the finals though, since we only lost to the eventual champions. Altogether it was a great weekend that left me really excited to play more ultimate! I've only got one more tourney here (and can only make part of it), but I'm looking forward to playing some more once I'm back in the US.

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

新型インフルエンザ

That's "Shingata Influenza," or "New Type Influenza" in English--the latest buzzword sweeping the nation!  And not in a good way.  Just this past weekend Japan's number of cases balooned to over 120; schools in Kobe and Osaka were shut down in Hyogo-ken, which, for those of you who know your Japanese geography, is right next to Tottori.

Not to be a douchebag or make light of what's already happened, but I'm kind of hoping we get one or two cases here and some school closures, especially given how relatively non-lethal the virus is proving.  It's kind of like hoping for a snow day, only minus the fun of getting to go hang out with your friends in the snow.

Japan has been seemingly very paranoid about the virus though; I've heard reports of some other JETs having to wear masks at work (along with everyone else) and of travel plans being grounded, and I fear the craze will persist.  Hopefully there won't be any issues when the time comes for me to head back home in July!

Hot Disc Action

I finally found some consistent ultimate.  The last weekend of April, I played at a tournament in Awaji (fully 4 hours' drive from me) with a bunch of internationals, mostly JETs,  from the area; weather was terrible, especially on the first day, but we stayed at a nearby teammate's house and bbq'd on Saturday night, complete with bona fide hamburger meat imported from the states, which by itself was enough to make my weekend.

Coming up: Beach ultimate in June, and in July there's a big tournament in Tajima--I actually played in it back in '05 with some Tokyo folk, and I'm really looking forward to going back and seeing how the tourney (and by extension, ultimate in Japan) has grown.

Slow Times at Junior High

The new year started in April, and with the new year came a re-organization of curriculum.  Unfortunately, this has left me without classes much more frequently than I'd like.

In part this stems from new-year activities, orientation and the like leading to canceled classes, but part of it is also just an outright reduction in my classes taught at one of my schools--I went from teaching all three grades every week to only being guaranteed to teach the 9th graders.  It's especially distressing for me because this school is my favorite one, where I get along with the students really well; fortunately, I still get to eat with the students and hang out (watch and occasionally chat) during club activities after school, so all is not lost, but I'm hoping that as the year progresses I'll again have fuller days.  Right now many classes are still early enough in their textbooks that the "speaking" lessons haven't cropped up yet, which is another reason my teaching volume is down--some classes I have scheduled wind up not needing me.

.'がんばっています。

Things are Heating Up...

After a fairly rainy/cold welcome upon my return to Japan from China, Things have warmed considerably.  Students are back to wearing their lighter summer uniforms after a long chilly (but not cold) winter.

I like to think of right now as the calm before the storm--the weather is bearable now; soon, when the summer hits full-bore, humidity and all, it won't be.

Swine Influenza Fever

I returned from China the first Tuesday in May, had Wednesday off, and went to work as usual on Thursday.  During the day, my supervisor (at the board of education) called a few times: once, to confirm whenI had gotten back; again, later, to tell me that for the sake of my elementary schools, I should take tomorrow off and not teach (my thought: you DO realize you're telling me not to go to school...while I'm at school, right? I assured him I was fine); and finally, he called to tell me that, well, since I said I was healthy, I could go to work after all.

Ridiculous.  The next day at the elementaries I got a round of questioning to the effect of:
"So you went to China, huh?" (yes, it was fun)
"Did you hear about the swine flu?" (some warnings on the flight over, and a lot on the way back, yep)
"...did they test or check you at all when you got back to Japan?" (yes yes, I had to fill out a form and... [at this point I exaggerated the trouble of the process so it sounded a little more rigorous])
[to the staff, visibly relieved:] "He was checked!"

Sigh.  The trouble with today's widespread information network is that it's very easy to get people into a panic.  At least my middle schools have some sense; no panic there.  Though I did mess with one of my students at lunch (this is the same one who thought I was Howie of BSB fame; when she asked about the flu ("pork influenza;" good vocabulary!) I feigned a few coughs and got a rise out of her before I assured her I was joking.

This is to say nothing of how much things have escalated in the 3-week interim; more on that in another post.

A Golden Week in China

Another JET and I went to China over Golden Week (a series of days off in close proximity to each other in Japan--it doesn't QUITE reach a week, but we covered the gap with a couple vacation days).  We entered and departed through Hong Kong (where you can get a visa for mainland China with about a day's turnaround), with stops in Guangzhou, Xi'an, and Beijing on the itinerary as well.  Notable stops included the Terra Cotta Warriors in Xi'an (and the ensuing haggling for small miniatures and souvenirs--at one point, without us even trying, a hawker bid himself down from 180 quai to 30 quai [~$30 to ~$10] as we walked by, merely browsing), and the obligatory trip to the Great Wall of China.

My friend Crank (check out his blog recapping our visit!) lives in Beijing currently, so getting to visit him was also a big highlight--I haven't seen him in a couple years, and given that I haven't seen any Dartmouth folk for a while it was really refreshing to spend a couple days with one of my favorites.

If you want more details, a vaguely slide-show-esque recounting can be found in picture form online.

My favorite, from the great wall (click for full size):

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

A Grand Entrance

Entrance ceremony is not so different from closing--dress is less the serious, black with white tie, more color (it being spring and all), but still the parents in the back (fewer tears), still lots of speeches, still lots of "stand up" "bow" "sit down" action (averaged a good eight instances of this at entrance; graduation was ridiculous, definitely over a dozen).

Knowing all the new 7th graders from teaching them in elementary school made it really fun to watch all the proceedings. Somehow most of the students were still surprised to see me there, even after I'd told them all at our last classes that I'd see them in junior high school. I won't be teaching them right off the bat (they want to get all their fundamentals down with reading, etc first) but I'm really looking forward to seeing them all in the halls at school (and getting to know the newbies at my other school next week).

Spring Break (Woo!)

...I didn't actually do much.

The first week of spring break I wound up putting up a couple guests at my place--I've registered for a site through which you can find and connect with people who are willing to put up travelers for a night, show them local sights, etc. Being one of the few foreigners in my part of Japan (and perhaps the only one registered on this particular site), I've gotten a few requests but this was the first one I could answer affirmatively. They were a couple French travelers, who'd spent two months doing organic farming in New Zealand (for those of you familiar with the Willing Workers On Organic Farms (WWOOF) program, that was it) and were spending another in Japan traveling before returning back home. I was pretty hesitant at first--after all, I'm taking a couple strangers into my home--but they were very nice and I actually really enjoyed the chance to play the role of guide, showing off my local knowledge and putting my Japanese skills to good use (they couldn't speak any).

The ensuing week (+change) had me going to the aforementioned farewell banquet, but mostly doing a LOT of housekeeping. I did a quick bang-up job before my guests arrived and at one point one jokingly commented that my home was "very much a young man's house." Other exciting ventures: taxes, financial aid paperwork.

Unfortunately, my grand visions of plentiful travels with the other JETs were dashed by the realization that, unlike me, who gets to chill at home, most JETs are forced to show up to work by their BOE--with no students there, there's very little to do. Some will take vacation days then, but we only have so many so a lot choose to grin and bear it. Overall, though, I had a very restful spring break, and I've returned to school for the new year with a renewed energy, in part due to the gorgeous weather, in part due to the excitement of having new people around again.

year ends, teachers transfer.

In contrast to graduation, a big, formal proceeding, the actual end of the school year was much more of a whimper than a bang--no formal dress, just students and teachers in the gym for a short speech from the principal.

The biggest deal about the year end is the teacher transfers. As I was in Taiwan the week before, I hadn't found out about any of my schools, but the one I went to the following week had 5 teachers leaving, most of whom I was acquainted with to some extent but nobody I had a terrible affection for (the one I liked most of them was actually transferring to my other school, which was convenient).

However, as I found out at the farewell banquet for my other school as spring break started, I was losing my favorite teacher! She was one of my co-teachers, and probably the most fun to work with--we taught the same graduates who I got to know and who wrote me messages, which were compiled in book form by her. Really enhanced my experience so far, but now she's transferring to the Other School in my town (where I don't work) and I'm definitely worse for it.

Himeji Safari

Right after I got back from Taiwan (literally right after--I took an overnight bus back from Osaka, took the morning train home, and didn't have time to do much more than change clothes before I set off again), I joined a couple other JETs for a day trip to Himeji. Some of you may know Himeji for its castle--very majestic, the only castle in Japan that has remained standing through the years (though others have been re-built), but it also has a nearby amusement park (shades of Spirited Away--"an old amusement park. They built them by the dozens back in the early '90s."), complete with ice skating rink (!) and safari zoo (!!).



It's always kind of surreal seeing elephants and the like when you're not in their native country, but especially so when spring has yet to fully hit and there are still copious bare trees and cold weather.

Overall, a little tacky, but a little nostalgic too--we did pass on the roller coasters and the like though, having had much better in the American equivalents.

Tai-wha?

After graduation we had a couple awkward weeks before the term ended properly--the 9th graders had already graduated, meaning 1/3 of the school was missing, and the remaining 7th and 8th graders had copious tests (the 9th graders of course had their equivalents shortly before graduation, including the all-important entrance examination, which determines what high school(s) they can attend). I found myself with a LOT of down time at work, even compared to usual.

Enter Ludi, my sister from another mister (sorry). My spring break came a little later than most in America, and she happened to be on break and visiting family in Hong Kong--taking a brief trip through Taiwan in the middle. Given that I'm already in East Asia I took off a few days to join her and had a swell time, seeing the sights in Taipei, along with her brother an uncle, and making an awesome bike trek though the Taiwanese (Democratic Chinese?) countryside for a couple days.

If you're interested in photos, you can either check the highlights on facebook or the full dump on Picasa.

Monday, March 16, 2009

Graduation

Students bow to the principal as they receive their diplomas.


Graduation here is a very momentous occasion, very formal. Teachers are all dressed up in formal suits, and it seems like every mother of a graduating student came (only a couple dads though, interestingly), handkerchief at the ready, and all descended into tears when (before, during, after) their child's turn came.

I go to two middle schools; unfortunately, they operate on the same schedule, so I could only attend one graduation--also unfortunately, I wound up at the school where I felt less connected to my students. I found myself a little emotional too, in part because I empathized with all the emotion in the students (many of whom were crying themselves) and the parents, but also in part because I realized that I couldn't see the students I had really connected with and then felt guilty because I realized I hadn't been doing well enough by the students at this school.

At any rate, the day was theirs, not mine, but I appreciated being able to be a part of it all, however small.

Later, I got yearbooks from both schools--and my other school had gone so far as to produce a DVD of the proceedings, which I got a copy of. (I've yet to watch it). The best, though, was the copy of one of the graduating classes' memory book--filled with pages from the students themselves (CTY folk might see the similarity). It was from one of my favorite classes, and on one of the pages there were notes for me that really made my day:

"Dear Matt-sensei,
at first I was nervous but then I enjoyed talking to you. Since I met you, I like English more. Thank you.
-Shihori"

"Dear Matt-sensei,
I LOVE YOU
-Kota"

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Daisen Snow and Stay, or: Mackey turns 22 (plus an onsen aside)

Over my birthday weekend (that's Feb. 7th-8th for those of you keeping track at home) there was a large gathering of JETs at Mt. Daisen (the "Big Mountain" I hiked back in the fall) for a ski weekend. Daisen is the biggest mountain in Japan West of Mt. Fuji, and despite Japan being so mountainous there is not a ton of skiing to be had; Daisen is one of the better slopes out there. A group of maybe 20 of us (including some native Japanese friends) stayed at a ryokan on the mountainside on Saturday night (a ryokan is a Japanese-style inn: think a large, communal bath area*, tatami mat floors, and yukata--light cotton kimono. Wonderful after a day of skiing). Naturally, we had easy access to the hills first thing Sunday after skiing for most of Saturday.

I wish I could put Daisen in better context, but all I know is Dartmouth's ski mountain in New Hampshire--it's definitely a big ski area, with a few mountainsides contained in the "Daisen" ski resort. However, outside of some deep moguls at the very top of one of the mountains the area is generally a bunch of wide open ski fields, so the degree of difficulty was not terribly challenging. That said, most of us there were not terribly great skiiers (and snowboarders--the split was maybe 20-80 skis-snowboards, with myself in the 20), so the mountain suited us perfectly.

After half a day of icy slopes on Sunday I drove back to the Eastern side of the prefecture with some friends (about a 2 hour drive). Being my 22nd birthday, (and 22 being a pretty uneventful age after you've run the 16-18-21 significance gauntlet) I didn't have plans to do anything special but a friend insisted and we went out for some delicious dinner at an okonomyiaki place, and followed it up with some delectable cake from the inauspiciously-named Pandora's Box for a full weekend and a happy birthday.




*Easily one of my favorite facets of Japanese culture. In one's home you have a single bath which the whole family will use in a given night--you clean off before you get in, and then soak in the hot water to relax. It's blissful. Onsen--your bath houses or large hotel baths--are the same thing, but instead of a one-man bath it's a large open area.

Got to go to a really big one a couple weeks back--this one has the feature of being co-ed (bathing suits), and had a good dozen baths, including one outdoors, a small-sized pool complete with water slide (which was AWESOME!), sauna with a freezing bath to chill yourself right outside, and a massage bath with strategically placed jets you could use. America could do with some more bath time, I think.

"My School Life"

Year end is swiftly approaching. I've all but finished seeing my 9th graders, who take their entrance exams next week (if they haven't already) and have their graduation ceremony the week after; things are similarly winding down with a lot of my other classes, but I'm at least bolstered by the knowledge that I'll get to keep working with them, if in a slightly different context.

At one of my schools the 9th graders wrapped up their year of English by writing about their experiences the past 3 years in junior high school, and ending with a message for their classmates as they all move on. There were some great ones, ranging from long narratives about experiences and feelings to the following:

"DESTINY
I joined the baseball club.
DESTINY!!
I became class leader.
DESTINY!!

Message is sausage."

Various other non sequiturs were had by some of the other jokesters with only so-so English, to hilarious end (another interspersed his memories with "oh, no, I dropped my cola"...bolded and at least 2x the size of the rest). Really been enjoying the time with my students, and I'm really gonna miss them when they move on!

In Sickness And In Health

Last week was reaaaally slow at one of my schools.

Flu season comes here as naturally as it does in America, with one big difference--you can tell it's flu season because people start showing up to school/work with face masks (think surgeon's mask, not hockey) to prevent the spread of airborne pathogens. It's always kind of a fun guessing game to figure out whether they're (a little) sick or trying to avoid becoming sick, but I think it's pretty great that the culture embraces such a thing.

Anyhow, last week, at one of my schools the 7th and 8th grade classes were apparently so decimated by the flu--maybe 1/5 of each grade, with potentially more to catch it--that, instead of having class and later having to play catchup with so many, classes were canceled. At least the 9th graders held on--another school in the area had school canceled entirely because for the same reason.

"What do you call this kind of music?" "Uhhh...classic rock."

One of my co-teachers is on a really big kick of using music in class lately--this week we spent some time introducing such contemporary artists as the Beatles and the Carpenters to the 7th and 9th graders, complete with videos ripped from youtube to provide some watching material. (Hm, old groups the kids had never heard of singing music in a language they didn't understand all that well? You'd be proud, Dorsey-sensei).

We're at that point in the year where we're running out of material that has to be covered, but there's still some time before the end of the year (remember, school year ends at the end of March here), so we can totally get away with this sort of thing--we'll do maybe one song that's listen-able with lyrics, followed by a few more for them to simply enjoy.

The last two songs we studied: "What a Wonderful World" by Louis Armstrong (kids got a BIG kick out of his facial expressions when he sings) and "I Just Called to Say I Love You" by Stevie Wonder (which, at the end, I was made to sing solo--this is what I get for trying to encourage the kids to come out of their shells by example).

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Winter weather update

A week or two ago one of my co-teachers informed me that winds from China were blowing over the Sea of Japan and warming Tottori. Apparently the locals call it "Kiroi Kaze," or "yellow wind," because the warm winds come from the Gobi Desert and carry small bits of sand with it ("don't dry your clothes outside today," he informed me). It's taken to be one of the first signs of spring.

Of course, since then we've had a wee bit of snow (not enough to stick) and the temperature has plummeted back down to the single digits on and off, but we are slowly shifting towards spring here. Finally got pictures of the street sprinklers in action; see attached.

Driving in Japan

One of the more jarring/disturbing/counter-intuitive aspects of living here in the winter is the way that some roads are cleared and maintained during and after a snowfall. On many main town roads, such as the one that runs right outside of my house, there is a line of sprinklers that runs down the middle of the road. They're pretty small and unobtrusive (you can drive over them, obviously), but when there's a snowfall or freezing conditions these sprinklers spring into action, spritzing water onto the street.

"But wait," you say, "Water? On the ROAD!? When it's FREEZING?"
Yes, water. The roads are on a slight slant from the sprinklers in the middle down to drains on either side. Water is sprayed, it rolls down the sides of the road, and then it falls off. It's not terribly warm water, but perhaps my friend the Physics Ph.D./Duke Alexander B. Crew can tell you that if water is moving swiftly enough it won't freeze—and what's more, thanks to water's high heat capacity, even relatively cool water can still facilitate the melting of any snow on the road. It moves, it melts, and it's disturbing as hell to drive on—but in practice, it's a big step up from the rest of the roads.

Plowing is infrequent at best (I don't believe I've seen a plow yet, merely snow piles—evidence of their wake), and salting/sanding is unheard of, so if it's not one of the magical watery routes, it's more than a little harrowing to get around. Particularly on back country roads, normally so narrow that 2-way traffic is cautious as best; the roads might be cleared, but their new form is narrow enough with snowbanks as to make 2-way traffic all but impossible. I quickly learned this my first day back, with many a roadside pull-over to let traffic pass on the way to work.

Oh, and parking lots are similarly neglected much of the time—my usual spot, a short walk from my house, was one of the neglected, and my second day back was kicked off by 20 fruitless minutes spent trying to simply get my car out of its spot. The snow that was already underneath the wheels combined with another foot of accumulation overnight to make my itty-bitty Vivian strain and groan with no release. Eventually an unknown good Samaritan came and helped push from behind as I finally got off the snowfield and onto the street for another round of wet, slow going. At least all of the white stuff everywhere made for some pretty scenery.

How Japan Deals with Cold Weather

Let me start by saying that Japan (at least, my part of Japan) has a very poor concept of insulation, and no concept of central heating (at least, not out in the countryside, and especially not in my 40-year-old house). With that, my living arrangements have shifted from a 4-room house with a kitchen to a 2-room arrangement with a very cold kitchen, as I close off the compartments to save on heating expense.

The one upshot of the lack of central heating is the prevalence in homes of the (somewhat legendary) kotatsu. For the uninitiated, you can check Wikipedia for a full explanation. Short version: think table, with a blanket covering every side, and a heater underneath. Think warm pocket of air trapped underneath the table. Think warm legs…think of how inviting it is to slide further under and warm your body…think of how easy it is from there to drift off to blissful, toasty slumber…that's the power and beauty of kotatsu.

So, while my days in school (don't even get me started on the hallways) tend to be cold, my evenings at home are generally nothing short of wonderful. Throw in the occasional hot bath (another cultural artifact in Japan that is under appreciated in the states), and you have a recipe for warmth and happiness in the cool Tottori winter.

The winter is not all that bad, by the way—coming from the still North and hill winds of Dartmouth, Tottori is downright pleasant much of the time. With the recent uptick in temperature (up around 10 degrees Celsius), the snow has swiftly melted off and the area has again taken on more of a late-fall flavor (though I'm hoping the ski mountains maintain a chillier climate for obvious reasons). I imagine we're due for more snow and colder weather now that February has come, but I could see why people who live around here are not too driven to insulate and heat more effectively.

Yakisoba in Wakasa

From my town of Funaoka, Wakasa is maybe a 20-25 minute drive away. Another JET lives there, and as I'm the closest to her and Japanese-competent (she's just started learning), she invited me to go with her to one of her town's restaurants for yakisoba.

She lives in a small town, the sort where your neighbors will ask you about the veggies you got at the grocery store last Friday, and had heard from one of her coworkers that this yakisoba place was THE place to go for yakisoba. So we went, ate, chatted up the couple that mans the grill, nothing too extraordinary.

...Her students have yet to stop asking her about her "boyfriend," and this was a few months ago now! What's more, when I was on a trip with my co-workers one weekend after the fact, we ran into a similar tour group from Wakasa and I was introduced to their principal at one point. "Oh!" He goes. "You're the one that got yakisoba with Marianne-sensei!"

School Culture Festivals

This was a while back (before the election), but I went to culture day activities for both of my middle schools on consecutive weekends in early November.

The schools were very different in what they put on—while one of my schools had myriad performances (including taiko drumming, koto playing, and, during lunchtime, tea ceremony), the other one centered largely on plays that were put on by both of the 9th grade classes. They were pretty hilarious to follow; both were based off of the well-known American stories, Snow White and Alice in Wonderland (apparently not well-known in Japan), and both had great twists from the students. My personal favorites from each: a scene at the end of Snow White in which the prince and Snow White duke it out with the witch and her henchmen to the battle theme from Final Fantasy 7 (and with similar arrangments of the characters on either side of the stage), and a scene at the start of Alice in Wonderland in which Alice's sister reads her a story—in this case, Spirited Away, as a dozen students run out on stage and act out various scenes simultaneously.

Both schools ended the day with a chorus competition, as each class performs the school anthem and another song of their choosing. I got to help with the judging at one school, and at the other I got to jump in on the singing (which was a unique challenge—sight read music I'd only practiced twice before, in hiragana. I would pick my spots to jump in with full voice, and spent most of the rest of the time following a half-second behind the guy singing next to me in a weaker voice). Events culminated with the best class receiving a prize (mostly bragging rights)…pretty entertaining on the whole.

Obamawesome.

ALL of my students of course know "Obama" at this point (though I enjoy asking them to tell me his first name: "…ba…la-ku?"), and everybody knows the "Yes we can" chant. It's kind of hilarious and adorable, especially when my elementary school students whip it out on me. Way back when Obama won the election, the following week at an enkai (banquet) my kocho-sensei (principal) ended his toast for the previous day's culture festival with "I know this is supposed to be about culture day, but…'Yes we can!'" and we all toasted to "Yes we can!"

If you're stuck stateside and have any doubts about the man, know that his election = instant credibility in the international community.

Thursday, January 29, 2009

Impending graduation...:-(

Being back in Japan and seeing my students again is a great joy. I left at a point where I was just starting to get really comfortable and settled with my working situation and my students, and I've returned not missing a beat. Students are more comfortable interacting with me, I'm continuing to get to know them (though I must confess, there are still far too many for me to remember all their names) and I feel like we're both getting more out of class--them, more English, and me, more job satisfaction (directly related to the former).

Sadly, the Japanese school year changes at the end of March, which means that all of my san-nensei (3rd year students, or 9th grade in America) will be graduating and moving on to high school (hopefully). As my oldest and most English-competent students, I've perhaps connected with them the most, and will really miss them after they leave (even though Japan's year changes, I am under contract through the summer). On the upside, though, I get to have a fresh start with all of my other students, and I'm especially excited for my elementary school 6th graders, who become middle school 7th graders at one of my schools in the spring (and move from "fun" English games to actual English class).

Winter in Tottori

I have the great pleasure of living in one of the handful of regions of Japan that actually get snow.

This means that, while I get some GORGEOUS scenery on a daily basis (I'll take and send some pictures next time we get a good snow), ...I also have to deal with the winter.

This means getting ready to go 10-15 minutes early so I have time to scrape my car off, turn on the defroster, heat it up, etc.

This means, on days when there are lots of snow (and at least a few days following), getting ready to go another 10-15 minutes earlier because Japanese roadway management pales in comparison to the quick responses of a New York or New England (but more on efficiency later).

This means, when my first full day back in the country has followed a major snowstorm and happens to be in the midst of another, I show up to work 30 minutes late. Fortunately, I wasn't the only one.

Apparently the amount of snow we've gotten here in Tottori is an unseasonably large amount--I'd heard the first snowstorms were the largest in some five years. One day my students even got the day off, because the trains here weren't running with all the snow (and if you know how good Japan Railways is, you'll know that means there was a LOT of snow)...teachers still had to show up though. Talk about a slow day.

It hasn't all been unfortunate and inconveniencing, though. Like I said, the snow is beautiful, espcially on the mountainsides of the valley I live and work in--more evidence that I need to live somewhere with scenery and four seasons--and of course, snow means skiing! I'll be taking my first trip to Mt. Hyounosen (you'll recall that I hiked up Daisen, "Big Mountain," in the fall (which also has skiing). Hyounosen translates as "Ice Mountain") on Saturday, and couldn't be more excited.